Crustade of Chicken & Pigeon

Step back a few centuries with this crustade, a medieval English savory custard tart that pairs game and poultry in a spiced, sweet-savory filling. It is the kind of historic dish that surprises modern palates in the best way.

The two birds, chicken and pigeon, are gently poached together in wine and stock with cloves and pepper until meltingly tender, then boned and chopped. That slow, low simmer is what makes a tough game bird tender enough for a tart.

The filling layers the meat with mushrooms and a scatter of raisins, then a beaten egg custard, seasoned with ground ginger and enriched with the savory cooking juices, gets poured over and baked until set.

That blend of warm ginger, cloves, and sweet raisins against savory meat is pure medieval cookery, from an era when sweet and savory mingled freely. Baked in a whole wheat pastry case, it is lovely warm with a green salad.

Chef Tips

• Poach the pigeon low and slow, adding the chicken later, so both birds turn tender without overcooking the quicker chicken.
• Blind-bake the pastry case first so the bottom stays crisp under the custard.
• Use a cup of the flavorful poaching juices in the egg custard for deep savory flavor.
• Bake just until the custard is set with a slight wobble; overbaking makes it rubbery.

Variations

• No pigeon? Use all chicken, or substitute duck or another game bird.
• Add a pinch of nutmeg or mace alongside the ginger for more medieval spice.
• Make it as a lidded pie or leave it open as a custard tart.