Crown Rack of Veal

When the occasion calls for a centerpiece, few roasts command a table like a crown rack of veal. Two racks are bent and tied into a regal circle, brushed with butter, and patted with a crust of bread crumbs and sharp Romano that crisps as it roasts.

A clever old trick keeps the crown standing tall: a small bowl of water sits in the cavity during roasting so the ring holds its shape, then comes out to make room for the stuffing.

And what a stuffing. This one is a rich Creole-style oyster dressing built on rendered pork, plump oysters and their liquor, soaked bread crumbs, and eggs to bind it all together.

Carrots, onions, bones, and wine roast right alongside the meat, flavoring the drippings, which you strain and reduce into a glossy sauce. Veal is lean and delicate, so roast it gently and don’t push it past done.

Chef Tips

• Keep a water-filled bowl in the center while roasting so the crown holds its shape, then fill it with stuffing after.
• Roast over the bones, carrots, onions, and wine. Those drippings are the base of your sauce.
• Veal dries out fast, so use a thermometer and pull it on time rather than guessing.
• Stuff the crown after roasting, not before, so the dressing doesn’t slow the meat’s cooking.

Variations

• Use a traditional bread or sausage stuffing if oysters aren’t your thing.
• Swap the Romano for Parmesan in the crust.
• Build a pork or lamb crown roast the same way for a different centerpiece.