Cod Fish Cakes

Salt cod fish cakes are the original North Atlantic pantry dinner. Before refrigeration, salt cod hung in every fishing village pantry from Boston to St. John’s. You rehydrated what you needed, mashed it with potatoes, and pan-fried it for supper. This recipe is that simple and has not needed updating in 200 years.

The overnight soak is non-negotiable and it is the step beginners always underestimate. Salt cod comes out of the package stiff as cardboard and seasoned enough to cure a ham. Cover with cold water, refrigerate, and change the water once or twice during the soak. In the morning, taste a small cooked flake. If it still reads too salty, simmer briefly and change the water again. Keep going until the fish is pleasantly savory but not harsh.

The mashed potatoes should be on the firmer side, no cream, no butter, just mashed with a fork. Wet, buttery mashed potatoes throw off the binding and the cakes fall apart in the pan. A single egg is enough binder for a pound of fish against six potatoes.

Fry in a mixture of oil and margarine (or butter) as the recipe specifies. The oil raises the smoke point so the margarine can carry the flavor without burning.

Chef Tips

• Use a mix of butter and a neutral oil, not margarine alone. Butter browns the crust beautifully but burns on its own. The oil is the temperature buffer.
• Form the cakes at least half an inch thick. Thin cakes dry out before the exterior browns.
• Rest the shaped cakes on a plate in the fridge for 15 minutes before frying. Cold cakes hold together better in the pan.
• Do not flip too soon. Wait until a clear golden crust has formed and the cake releases easily from the pan. Flipping early tears the bottom apart.

Variations

• Add a tablespoon of chopped fresh parsley or chives to the mix for color and brightness.
• Serve with traditional mustard pickles, tartar sauce, or a spoonful of chow chow for a true Maritime plate.
• Substitute hot smoked cod or haddock and skip the overnight soak for a quicker, smokier version.