Chili Primero

Chili primero is the kind of weekend chili that demands time, not labor, with a four-hour simmer that turns chunks of round steak into fork-tender, sauce-coated bites. The recipe pulls a clever move by browning the bacon first, then using the rendered grease to crisp the round steak and sweat the onions and peppers, layering smoke and savor at every stage. Pickled cactus is the unexpected ingredient that makes this version distinctive, lending a slight pickly tang you don’t find in standard Texas chili. The combo of green chiles, jalapeños, cayenne, and chili powder builds heat from multiple directions, while a long list of spices including cumin, coriander, and oregano deepens the base. Masa harina goes in for the last four hours, where it slowly thickens the chili and adds that distinct corn-tortilla flavor that ties every spoonful together. Top with sour cream and shredded cheese, and have warm flour tortillas or cornbread ready to mop up.

Pro Tips

• Brown the round steak in batches as it comes out of the bacon grease, crowding the pan steams instead of sears and loses the maillard flavor.
• Stir the chili occasionally during the four-hour simmer, masa harina settles on the bottom and will scorch if left undisturbed for too long.
• Use real masa harina, not cornmeal, the corn-tortilla flavor and binding power are different and corn meal makes the chili gritty.
• Make it a day ahead, the flavors deepen and round out overnight, and the chili tastes noticeably better the second day.

Variations

• Substitute beef chuck for the round steak if you want richer, fattier meat that breaks down further in the long simmer.
• Skip the cactus if hard to find and add an extra cup of chopped poblano peppers for a similar mild-veggie effect.
• Stir in a square or two of unsweetened chocolate at the end for a Mexican-mole undertone.