Chicken Burgers

Forget the dry hockey pucks that come out of a freezer bag. These chicken burgers start with chicken breasts ground twice for a finer texture, then bound with a slice of bread soaked in water and squeezed dry. That old-world trick is what keeps lean chicken from baking out into sawdust on the pan.

The seasoning isn’t shy. Onion, garlic, marjoram, chives, mustard, and paprika all go into the mix, giving the patties a savoury depth that doesn’t rely on a sauce to taste like anything. Marjoram is the one to notice: it’s a softer, sweeter cousin of oregano that plays well with chicken and rarely shows up in burger recipes.

Pan-fry rather than grill. Chicken burgers grill poorly because they’re lean and tend to dry out or fall through the grates. A skillet with hot fat gives a proper golden crust and locks the juices in.

Kitchen Tips

• Grind the chicken twice or pulse in a food processor until smooth. A coarse grind leaves stringy patties that fall apart when you flip them.
• Squeeze the soaked bread really well. Wet bread turns the burger mixture mushy and impossible to form.
• Don’t press down on the patties while cooking. That trick people use on beef burgers literally pushes the juice out, and these chicken burgers are too lean to spare a drop.
• Heat the pan and the fat properly before the burgers go in. A lukewarm pan stews the patties grey instead of searing them gold.

Variations

• Swap the marjoram for fresh tarragon or thyme, both of which pair beautifully with chicken.
• Stir in a tablespoon of grated parmesan and a handful of chopped sun-dried tomatoes for an Italian-style chicken burger.
• Top with sliced avocado and a smear of pesto instead of tartar sauce for a brighter, herbier finish.