Bricklayer's Salsa

In Mexico, this is salsa de albañil, named after the bricklayers and construction workers who eat it for lunch with tortillas and whatever else is on hand.

It’s fast, raw (except for the roasted tomatillos), and full of sharp, bright flavor that wakes up anything you put it on.

The trick is texture. You want it chunky and rough, not smooth. A few quick pulses in a food processor or, better yet, a good pounding in a molcajete gives you that coarse, rustic bite where every spoonful is a little different.

Pile it on tacos, spoon it over grilled meats, or just drag tortilla chips through the bowl until it’s gone.

Chef Tips

• Roast the tomatillos under the broiler or in a dry skillet until they’re blistered and soft. This concentrates their tangy flavor and adds a hint of smokiness.
• Pulse, don’t blend. One second too long in the processor and you’ve got green soup instead of salsa. Three quick pulses is usually enough.
• A mortar and pestle (molcajete) gives the best results. The stone crushes the fibers instead of cutting them, releasing more flavor and creating a better texture.
• Taste before serving and adjust the salt. Tomatillos vary wildly in tartness, and a pinch of sugar can balance a batch that’s too sour.