Bitter Greens Salad

Bitter greens salad is a four-ingredient palate cleanser that earns its place on the table because it does what a pile of soft butter lettuce never could. The bitterness of radicchio, the peppery snap of arugula, and the earthy crunch of chicory all push back against rich, fatty foods, which is exactly why Italians serve a salad like this alongside a heavy pasta or a slice of roasted lamb.

Wash the greens in plenty of cold water and dry them aggressively. Wet leaves shed dressing into a pool at the bottom of the bowl, and bitter greens especially need direct contact with oil and acid to mellow into something balanced rather than aggressive.

Plate the radicchio first as a base. Its sturdy purple leaves act like edible cups that catch the dressing, and the contrast against the green arugula and pale chicory is half the appeal on the plate.

Dress at the very last second. These greens wilt fast and once limp they lose their textural backbone. A bottled Italian dressing works fine, but a quick whisk of good olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and black pepper made fresh makes everything sharper.

Kitchen Tips

• Soak chicory in cold water for 10 minutes to mellow some of the harshest bitterness if it’s particularly sharp.
• Tear greens by hand rather than cutting. Knife edges bruise the leaves and cause faster browning.
• Use a salad spinner. Dried-with-paper-towels greens are never dry enough.
• Add a pinch of sugar to the dressing if your greens are extra bitter. It softens the edge without making things sweet.

Variations

• Toss in segments of fresh orange or grapefruit. The sweetness balances the bitterness beautifully.
• Add shaved parmesan, toasted walnuts, and a few thin shavings of red onion for a richer side.
• Top with a softly poached egg and crisped pancetta for a brunch-worthy main.