Harvest Apricot Preserves

This is the way preserves used to be made before pectin packets and digital thermometers: ripe summer apricots, sugar, lemon juice, and patience. Nine pounds of pitted, very ripe fruit cooked down in a wide preserving pan with sugar until the jam reaches setting point. Skim off the foam constantly so the finished jar stays clear and bright orange instead of cloudy.

A splash of lemon juice goes in shortly before the end. The acid is what activates the natural pectin in the apricot skins, locking the jam into a soft, spreadable set. The traditional finish is a stir of “Preserving Aid” (sodium benzoate or commercial pectin) dissolved in hot water for extra insurance against spoilage and a firmer set.

The old saucer test still works as well as anything: a spoonful on a chilled plate, leave it a minute, then turn the saucer upside down. If the jam holds, it’s done. Pot up while hot, seal the jars while warm, and label.

Pro Tips

• Use very ripe, almost overripe apricots. Underripe fruit has too little sugar and not enough flavor for a long-cook preserve.
• Skim aggressively. The white foam is air bubbles and impurities; if you don’t pull them off, the jars look murky.
• Use a wide, shallow preserving pan, not a deep stockpot. The water needs surface area to evaporate.
• Sterilize jars in a 250°F (120°C) oven for 20 minutes before filling. Hot jam in cold jars cracks the glass.

Variations

• Add a vanilla pod, a stick of cinnamon, or a few cardamom pods during the cook for a spiced version.
• Stir in ¼ cup blanched slivered almonds at the end of cooking for texture.
• Dial back the sugar to 5 pounds for a less sweet, more tart preserve. The set will be looser.