Sugar House Ham

Sugar house ham is what New England farmers cooked during sugaring season, simmering a whole ham directly in the maple sap as it boiled down in the sugar shack. Apple juice works as a year-round stand-in and delivers nearly the same depth.

The simmer is the secret. Three hours in fragrant liquid renders the ham tender, washes out some of the cure’s salt, and infuses every fiber with sweet apple-maple flavor. The cooking liquid is liquid gold for the glaze, don’t drain it down the sink.

The glaze comes together while the ham rests. Maple sugar, prepared mustard, ground cloves, and a generous cup of those raisins-plumped-in-the-broth gets simmered briefly, then poured over the trimmed ham for a final bake.

A half hour at 300F (150C) bakes the glaze into the meat without drying out the exterior. The pan drippings get thickened into a sauce by whisking in browned flour mixed with cold water, the old-school technique that gives the gravy its toasty depth.

Plan for leftovers. Cold slices on rye with mustard is the next-day reward.

Pro Tips

• Use real fresh maple sap if you can source it during sugaring season. The flavor is incomparable.
• Brown the flour in a dry skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it smells nutty and turns the color of peanut butter.
• Score the rind in a diamond pattern before glazing for prettier presentation and better glaze adherence.
• Save the apple juice cooking liquid for braising cabbage or pork chops later in the week.

Variations

• Swap raisins for dried cranberries and add a splash of bourbon to the glaze for a holiday version.
• Use maple syrup in place of maple sugar, reducing the water in the glaze by half.
• Stud the rind with whole cloves before the final bake for a more traditional clove-studded look.