FRENCH FOOD

by Mark R. Vogel

What comes to mind when you think of French cuisine? Lavish food? Cream and butter? Red wine? Pastry? Big price tag? There are many facets to French food and cooking. First of all, there is no one type of French cuisine.

The nature of French cooking, just like Italian, is highly dependent on the particular region of the country in question. However, technique, culinary history, and stylistic trends do play a unifying role in shaping the scope of French cooking.

Geography affects gastronomy via two key mechanisms. First, the microclimate, and the unique characteristics of the land in any given location determines which food products can be cultivated. Second, proximity to certain natural food sources, (oceans, forests, etc.), as well as to the influence of neighboring cultures, will shape a region's culinary destiny.

It is no surprise then that the cuisine of Brittany & Normandy, on the northwest coast of France, is dominated by seafood. However, the land here is suitable to raising cattle and apple trees. Thus, dairy products, cheeses and various apple preparations, (including the infamous apple brandy Calvados), play an integral role.

The food of Alsace, which borders Germany in the northeast, is clearly infiltrated with German influences, most notably the dish Choucroute garni, which is sauerkraut combined with pork and/or sausages. Even their wines are more similar to neighboring Germany than the rest of France.

Alsace is also known for its fruits, use of foie gras, and savory tarts, such as quiche Lorraine. Foie gras is the liver of fattened (from over-fed), ducks or geese. This delicacy is high in fat and expensive. All I can say is taste it. See if you care about your heart or your wallet as this puddle of heaven sublimely melts in your mouth.

Provence is located on the southeast coast and naturally reflects the flavors of the Mediterranean. Here we depart from the French stereotype of fat, cream and butter. In Provence, olive oil is king, as well as greater use of vegetables, herbs, and seafood.

One cannot discuss the bounty of Provence without mentioning the renowned bouillabaisse, a Mediterranean seafood stew with tomatoes, herbs, olive oil, onions, and wine. It doesn't get any more Provencial than that.

The southwest part of France is known as the Midi. Nearest to Spain, the Spanish influences of chile peppers and salted fish are evident. Lamb, snails, foie gras, duck, and organ meats are also common.