A Standard For All Seasons?

Psychology and upbringing are irrefutable factors in our dietary perceptions. Individuals' likes and dislikes are heavily swayed by the nature of the food they grew up on.

The saltier the food that you have become accustomed to, the higher the salinity content you will probably require to sense your optimum amount. This is due, not only to familiarity, but desensitization of our taste buds. The same phenomenon occurs with spicy foods and hot peppers.

Moreover, at the risk of opening up yet another can of worms, Americans have a proclivity for becoming neurotic and obsessed about their food. Years ago there was research to suggest that salt played a role in high blood pressure.

In no time there arose a legion of anti-salt proponents. Now there is reason to believe that dietary sodium intake has no direct bearing on hypertension. Nevertheless, fanaticism dies hard.

There are still many salt-phobes lurking out there and you can be sure their fears are controlling their sense of taste, and subsequently their appraisal of any dish's seasoning.

Finally, the presence of other foods and/or substances can regulate your taste perception. Sugar is often added to a variety of preparations to counterbalance the salt.

Some foods contain substances which actually change our taste perception of other elements. Artichokes for example, harbor a compound known as cynarin which make other foods, and much to the dismay of sommeliers the world over, even wine taste sweeter.

So what is a chef to do? He or she is left with the challenge of finding that elusive degree of seasoning that will satisfy as many people as possible. This is no small task.

I'll never forget the day I was preparing dinner for a group of friends and gave each a preliminary taste to assess saltiness. One thought it needed more, one thought it was right on, and a third felt it was too salty.

Talk about a culinary nightmare. Salt can always be added to food but never removed. Thus, the safest bet is salting somewhat conservatively and allowing individuals to add more if they like. And that's why it's called "table" salt.

• page 2 of 2
• previous page