Custard's Last Stand

by Mark R. Vogel

Creme anglaise, devoid of such protection can curdle very easily. Thus, while pastry cream must be brought to a full boil, crime anglaise must be gently cooked until it reaches a temperature of 170-175 degrees.

It curdles at 180 so the window of success is quite narrow. Some chefs employ a double boiler, (a metal bowl resting on top of a saucepan of simmering water), which produces a more gentle heat than direct cooking in a saucepan.

Baked custards include crime brulee, flan, cheesecake, and quiche. With the exception of quiche, baked custards are usually cooked in a water bath.

Once again, gentle heating is required to prevent curdling. The water bath insulates the custard from excessive heat. Baked custards are usually poured into ramekins resting inside a roasting pan filled with enough water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

They are done when they evince no more than a slight wiggle when the pan is shaken. It is better to slightly undercooked them since carry over cooking will take place. If overdone they crack or curdle.

CREME ANGLAISE

PASTRY CREAM

CREME BRULEE